Gary Romano has broken my heart a few times. Before remodeling the Stater Brothers on Mary Street, he bought Milano's, my childhood local pizzeria. I was happy to have him in the neighborhood and was told there would be a Romano's in that shopping center after the new Stater Brothers was completed. I'm certain it's not Gary Romano's fault that there is still no pizza on Lincoln and Mary, but I sure wish there was.
The second time was the closing of Marisa's Deli at Canyon Crest Town Center. Again, circumstances were beyond his control, but it was still a big disappointment. Marisa's was a standout in a sandwich-heavy town. Their excellent bread and creative originals made it a favorite of many.
On Mondays, after our weekly Editor's meeting, I take a little drive around Riverside. It helps me see what's coming and what's going on, and I usually get a story or two on the journey. I try to get out of Downtown and Magnolia Center into the parts of Riverside that get a little less coverage. Last Monday, I was driving up Van Buren toward Woodcrest, and I noticed Tommy Salami's, a new Pizza and Deli on Washington and Van Buren.
It was lunchtime, so I decided to give the new place a shot. Tommy Salami's was BUSY! There was limited seating, but it was obvious that this was a pick-it-up-and-take-it-home type of place. I started to scan the menu and I started to notice something. First, The marketing is slick. This isn't a chain, but clearly, it is not somebody's first attempt in the food business. I kept looking, and I started noticing some things that were very familiar.
Like an unexpected encounter with the one that got away, I started seeing Marisa's menu dressed up as Tommy the Pizzaiolo. The Yard Bird, the Caprese Sandwich, the salads, and right there, in black and white, my go-to, the Tommy Gun. A sandwich I thought I'd never eat again: salami, Mortadella, Capocollo, and pepperoni with provolone, shredded lettuce, tomato, and the same exact Italian dressing I remember.
Tommy Salami's isn't the quiet deli tucked in the corner of the Town Center. There is no outdoor seating or brunch menu. I still miss Marisa's. That being said, Tommy Salami's brings the best of Marisa's and adds a thick-crust neighborhood pizza joint to the mix. I have no doubt that the neighborhood will support Tommy Salami's, and as Marisa's fans start to hear that they can find their old favorites, they will travel across town to try it out.
I will be back, and I'll probably order the Tommy Gun. Good luck at the new spot! Don't break my heart…again.
This week, as pomegranate season peaks and trees all over Riverside are bowed over with heavy fruit, Seth learns about a project at UCR that aims to diversify the world of pomegranates with research into varied and delightful cultivars beyond the Wonderful.
In today’s Eat This column, a conversation with a respected donut shop owner led Seth down a donut rabbit hole to investigate whether Riverside’s independent donut shops are all serving more or less the same donuts made with the same industrially packaged donut mix. Spoiler alert: they are!
